VETEMENTS SS19 RTW (FWC TBFashion)

Looking back at the Vetements show by Demna Gvasalia, it was a powerful and deeply personal presentation that went beyond mere fashion references. DEMNA drew inspiration from his own experiences growing up in Georgia during the civil war, using the collection as a cathartic means of self-disclosure. The runway itself was transformed into a white table, reminiscent of a wedding reception, symbolizing the juxtaposition between celebration and the harsh reality of displaced migrants living in encampments nearby.

But let’s shift our focus to the fashion itself. The first look showcased a tattoo-printed flesh-color body T-shirt paired with black skinny jeans and shiny, pointy shoes. Although comparisons were made to previous designs by Margiela and Gaultier, there was a deeper significance to the tattoos.

DEMNA incorporated patterns reminiscent of the tattoos worn by criminals in Georgian prisons, representing mafia authority. Additionally, scanning the T-shirt with a Vetements app directed viewers to a Wikipedia page dedicated to the “Ethnic Cleansing of Georgians in Abkhazia,” highlighting the trauma DEMNA and his family endured during their escape from Sukhumi in 1993.

The show continued with a mix of recognizable Vetements styles and politically charged messages. For women, there were caped, breezy, pleated print dresses, showcasing Gvasalia’s ongoing exploration of floral motifs. A moment of dramatic black velvet, inspired by his “Gothic” grandma, made a statement on the runway. Fringed, rose-printed Russian scarf-dresses added an additional layer of visual interest.

Gvasalia fearlessly incorporated political slogans, predominantly in Georgian and Russian languages, with profound impact. These messages were daring and carried greater significance in Eastern Europe. From the filthiest Russian swear word to the pious Georgian saying, each statement sparked intrigue and conversation. Gvasalia also brought street-cast Georgian models, expressing empathy for their stoic demeanor.

Among the garments, a bomber jacket stood out, featuring a clenched fist with the word “Enough” written in Georgian, symbolizing Gvasalia’s solidarity with the next generation. It was a show that combined explosive elements, such as bullet heels and flag jackets representing different nations, with the familiar Vetements aesthetic. Looking back, Gvasalia’s show not only pushed fashion boundaries but also delved into the complexities of personal and political history. It left a lasting impact, resonating particularly in Eastern Europe, where the messages held deeper significance.