SAINT LAURENT MEN’S SUMMER 2024

Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent men’s show in Berlin showcased impressive tailoring that featured broad shoulders and slim legs, interspersed with delicate shoulder details framed by ethereal silk and chiffon sleeveless shirts. Anthony Vaccarello provided glimpses of his vision on Instagram before the show, sharing a brief clip of the French short film “Un Chant d’Amour” directed by Jean Genet, which served as an ode to sensuality and criminality. The collection, titled “Each Man Kills the Things He Loves,” drew inspiration from notable figures such as Jeanne Moreau and Rainer Werner Fassbinder, representing the intersection of Parisian and Berlin influences.

However, the show went beyond mere references and nods to specific cities. Vaccarello’s design trajectory continued, building upon previous shows in Paris and Marrakech. The choice of venue, the Neue Nationalgalerie designed by Mies van der Rohe, reflected the precision and structure of the collection. Vaccarello aimed to leave a lasting impression of the silhouette in the minds of the audience, emphasizing a thoughtful and concise design approach. The 50 looks presented explored the exquisite tension between tailoring, or “tailleur,” and soft, sensual dressing, known as “flou,” a signature element of YSL.

Anthony Vaccarello seamlessly translated the traditionally feminine elements into menswear, drawing inspiration from his women’s fall collection. Delicate slipper satin tanks with plunging necklines were paired with confident jackets, while high-waisted pants showcased high chunky-heeled boots. Leopard spots and polka dots made recurring appearances, adorning sensually wrapped shirts and one-shouldered tops with bow-tie necklines cascading down like veils. Black sweatshirts were transformed into couture-like evening ensembles, draping off the shoulders with a relaxed take on smoking pants.

Notably, the show featured a remarkable range of tuxedos that opened and closed the presentation. Following the impressive shoulder structure of the jackets and the slimness of the trousers, the tuxedos exuded an androgynous elegance with their bow ties and high-collared shirts. They inadvertently evoked a Lydia Tar vibe, reminiscent of the film set in Berlin.