RICK OWENS SS24 MENS LIDO

Rick Owens, renowned for his avant-garde and boundary-pushing designs, presented his highly anticipated SS 24 collection in a runway show that left a lasting impression. Owens, known for his thought-provoking statements, set the tone for the show with his livestream description, contemplating the role of joy in our lives amidst the challenging circumstances of our world. With a belief that personal joy is a moral obligation, Owens proposed a collection that exuded a grim, determined elegance, all enveloped in his signature dramatic black.

The collection featured strict and structured trousers crafted from wool, silk, or cotton faille. These high-waisted pieces gracefully skimmed the leg, flaring out and cascading to the floor. Paired with these trousers were silk or leather t-shirts that wrapped, stretched, twisted, and draped around the upper torso, creating dynamic and captivating silhouettes.

Owens showcased cropped tailored jackets, meticulously constructed from GOTS certified organic cotton organdy or silk gazar. Transparent silk organza linings revealed the intricate craftsmanship and inner construction of the garments. The jackets boasted sharply extended shoulders, cleverly balanced with skinny knit sleeves to control volume and elongate the arm, further defining the unique aesthetic of the collection.

Creating an imposing yet ethereal silhouette, the collection introduced coats that were simultaneously airy and light as a feather. Through the ingenious mille-feuille construction of the thinnest, lightest, and crispest layers of sheerest silks, Owens achieved an exquisite balance of drama and weightlessness. Additionally, silk habotai, known for its weightless quality, was used to craft shirts, tunics, and robes that effortlessly floated around the figure, perpetually in motion. It is worth noting that all the silks in the collection were woven in the Como region, a testament to Owens’ commitment to local craftsmanship.

The collection also showcased impeccable tailoring, featuring pure wool grain de poudre fabrics woven in collaboration with Bonotto, a fourth-generation textile mill founded in 1912 in Veneto, Italy. Woven on Japanese looms from the 1950s, using RWS certified wool that ensures high standards in animal welfare, environmental sustainability, and social responsibility, each bale of wool is traceable back to its source. Bonotto, incidentally, boasts one of the largest Fluxus art collections in the world, a fascinating connection to the art world within the realm of fashion.

Leather pieces in the collection included shorts, tank tops, and jackets made from oily calf leather that underwent vegetable tanning using wooden drums in Santa Croce sull’Arno, Tuscany, Italy. These pieces were crafted by a small family-owned tannery with an LWG Gold Rating. The LWG certification ensures the traceability of raw materials and upholds high environmental standards, efficient use of energy, and responsible water consumption during the tanning process.

Continuing their collaboration with Japan, Rick Owens presented leather jackets made from 1mm oil wax calf leather, tanned in Tatsuno, Hyōgo Prefecture, and sewn in Atsugi, Kanagawa Prefecture. These jackets embody the fusion of traditional Japanese craftsmanship with Owens’ distinctive aesthetic.

For denim lovers, the collection offered cutoff shorts and cargo pants cut from 13oz Japanese selvedge denim. Stone-washed, over-dyed, and waxed at the denim wash house in Veneto, Italy, these pieces were produced using only ZDHC certified products. The water purifying process employed in the wash house allows for a significant portion of the water used to be recycled, underscoring Owens’ commitment to sustainable practices.

All jersey tops in the collection were crafted from GOTS certified organic cotton, sourced from a mill located just 20km from Rick Owens’ home base in Concordia. This choice reflects Owens’ dedication to incorporating sustainable materials into his designs.

Adding an artistic touch to the collection, silk bandanas featured prints from Ron Athey’s 2014 performance, ‘Incorruptible Flesh.’ Owens expressed his admiration for Athey’s aesthetic and his longstanding connection with the artist, dating back to the 1980s.

In the realm of footwear, Rick Owens presented a sandal version of last season’s splint boots, available in both heeled and flat sole variations. Notably, a triple-strapped hoof splint design brought a unique and bold element to the collection, reminiscent of leather pillows strapped to one’s feet.

Lastly, Owens shared a heartfelt revelation about the hand-stamped labels used on his garments. For the past two decades, Giorgia Malavasi, a retired relative of one of the team members, has been diligently hand-stamping the labels in their village. Owens expressed his commitment to preserving this tradition, even as the label continues to evolve and produce collections industrially in Italy.

Rick Owens’ SS 24 collection showcased his unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, sustainability, and artistic collaboration. By combining a determined elegance with a contemplation of personal joy as a moral obligation, Owens delivered a captivating and thought-provoking runway show that left a lasting impression on the fashion world.