Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024

For nearly a decade, Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative mastermind behind Louis Vuitton, has taken fashion on a grand tour of architectural marvels such as John Lautner’s Palm Springs house, Oscar Niemeyer’s Niteroi Museum in Rio, and Louis Kahn’s Salk Institute in San Diego. This season, his resort show was set to unfold in a different kind of location—the terraced gardens of Isola Bella, a charming private island in Italy’s Lake Maggiore, owned by the Borromeo family for 500 years. Ghesquière expressed his fascination with the mysterious allure of the lakes, saying, “There are beautiful places to go in Italy, but the lakes are so mysterious.”

Transporting a star-studded guest list that included Catherine Deneuve, Oprah Winfrey, and Cate Blanchett, along with around 1,000 others, to this breathtaking venue was no small feat. However, even the might of Louis Vuitton couldn’t change the weather, and the rain poured down relentlessly, forcing the cancellation of the planned sunset show and open-air after-party. Nonetheless, an earlier presentation was held to capture the essence of the collection.

One can only imagine the enchantment of seeing these garments glide through the gardens, surrounded by tropical fruit trees against the backdrop of the Alps. Ghesquière drew inspiration from the watery surroundings, envisioning the girls emerging from the lake as mermaids and transforming into something else. This concept tied together a collection that showcased various distinct ideas. When free from the constraints of Paris, Ghesquière tends to think more liberally and loosely, and this sci-fi fantasy had the ethereal quality of a fairytale.

The journey began with scuba-inspired ensembles featuring fin-like collars and water droplet embellishments. Elaborately printed diving jackets evoked images of Hokusai waves and the creatures lurking beneath. Neoprene tank suits were paired with opulent courtly robes, and mermaid-scale sequin skirts were matched with naval jackets. The show-stopping baroque headpieces, created by a Rome-based atelier renowned for its work in opera and film, paid tribute to Italy’s rich heritage of craftsmanship.

Then, the mermaids found their sea legs. Just over three weeks ago, Ghesquière and his Louis Vuitton teams presented a pre-fall show in Seoul, focusing on street-ready, sporty-glam silhouettes tailored for the vibrant city. Here, the everyday pieces included brushed cashmere sweaters in soft pastels that Ghesquière described as Italian colors, “button-downs” and “jeans” crafted from embroidered lace and sumptuous brocades, and elegantly tailored coats topping sequined floral dresses inspired by the island’s flora.

“In the end, the mermaid becomes a flower, albeit a flower that doesn’t exist,” Ghesquière mused. This notion gave rise to a series of long dresses in those same delicate pastels, marking a departure for the designer, who has typically shied away from gowns on the LV runway. These dresses were simultaneously delicate and bold, constructed from silk, georgette, organza, and lace, with softly draped bodices, voluminous sleeves, and sculptural, swingy hems.

Who needs mysterious lakes when the power of imagination reigns supreme? Who desires quiet luxury when one can revel in a couture-level cape adorned with water droplet beading or a quilted damask jacket featuring legendary creatures like wyverns and unicorns? It was a captivating and transportive show, showcasing the magic of Louis Vuitton under Ghesquière’s visionary direction.