GUCCI SS24 MENSWEAR

In honor of the Gucci Horsebit Loafer’s 70th anniversary, the renowned fashion house hosted a vibrant and captivating celebration on the opening day of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. The venue, Spazio Maiocchi, was transformed into an immersive experience, combining installations, live performances, exhibitions, and curated videos by Alessio Ascari, the creative director of Spazio Maiocchi.

The event, aptly named The Gucci Horsebeat Society, took on the ambiance of a countercultural meta-country club. Ten emerging artists, specializing in digital and AI-generated imagery, reimagined the iconic Horsebit motif—the metal clamp inspired by a horse’s bridle that has become synonymous with Gucci’s legacy. The Horsebit was ingeniously reinterpreted throughout the space, appearing as an AI-generated pattern on the plush wall-to-wall carpeting, warped into distorted kinetics woven into a denim ensemble, and subtly integrated as a graphic element within the classic checks of a Prince of Wales wool tailored suit.

Displayed alongside the commissioned art pieces, Gucci’s spring collection was presented as an art installation. The looks were showcased on mannequins, surrounded by a room adorned with the collage motifs of Australian image-maker Ed Davis, whose artwork was also featured on an oversized silk bowling-set/skater ensemble. Throughout the collection, references to the brand’s archives were harmoniously merged with forward-looking elements, resulting in augmented silhouettes. Both tailored and sport-infused pieces exuded amplified proportions while staying true to the brand’s classic construction.

The collection struck a perfect balance between the past and the future. Sartorial three-piece suits were reimagined into sharp-cut, trim versions, with slight updates such as elongated blazers, shortened sleeves and cuffs, and a revival of ’70s bootcut trousers. Simultaneously, a touch of inventive techno-quirk was evident in the optically treated surfaces of workwear/sporty hybrids. The iconic GG logo was digitally distorted into a glazed effect or laser-printed on denim-like leather. Additionally, a spongy three-dimensional weave showcased the logo in a playful manner. An unconventional shiny, liquid oversized hoodie/shorts ensemble boasted fabric woven with silver metallic threads, allowing it to shape-shift and adapt. A washed denim jacket, tucked into wide-leg pants, featured thermo-incrusted micro mirror tiles, creating a mesmerizing effect that reflected light like a wearable disco ball.

The art installations showcased throughout the venue celebrated the Horsebit’s captivating metamorphosis. One particularly visually compelling piece was Sylvie Fleury’s 1998 furry bedroom, adorned with a hanging square-heeled Horsebit loafer in striking red patent leather from Tom Ford’s Gucci fall 1995 show. Another impressive artwork was a surrealist bean-shaped wooden desk created by American sculptor Pitter Patter, supported by replicas of stylish knee-length legs clad in Gucci bootcut trousers and Horsebit loafers of various styles. The entire event exuded entertainment and a playful artistic flair, leaving attendees eagerly anticipating the upcoming arrival of the new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, set to debut in September.