Giorgio Armani SS24 Menswear

Giorgio Armani’s creative process begins with a blank page and a pencil, a ritual that has shaped every collection since 1975. Today, Armani brought this moment of inception to the forefront of his runway presentation at Via Borgonuovo, featuring an oversized pencil as a symbolic conclusion.

Each season, a new layer is added to the existing narrative. In this collection, a direct reference to his very first menswear line emerged through the close-up print of raffia weave adorning roomy blousons, pants, and bags. However, Armani emphasized that this archival homage was not the central focus. “The collection surely recalls the past, without making it all about the past,” he explained.

The long, shirt-like cut of the lightweight jackets, reminiscent of Asian attire and seen in this season’s Emporio collection, exuded the same fluid elegance as the iconic pieces once worn by Richard Gere. The final four suits, evoking nostalgia for the golden age of Hollywood, may trigger fond memories for seasoned industry insiders. Yet, one can equally envision a new generation donning this collection, infusing it with their own stories and unique context.

The wearable narrative unfolded through collarless jackets in textured seersucker, grip bags framed with lattice patterns, layered silk shirts and foulards adorned with logos, oversized pearl-toned trenches flowing silkily, slingback loose-weave espadrilles, breezy separates crafted from tie-print silks, and a twinset dyed in indigo. Armani chose to have models carry straw hats rather than wearing them, suggesting their suitability for beachside settings rather than urban environments. Similarly, he avoided incorporating shorts into the collection.

Before the suiting finale, a predominantly white section captivated with its brilliance, featuring a particularly remarkable field jacket and cargo pants. Here, Armani embraced the concept of the blank page, preparing his pencil for the next chapter. As he reflected, it is through filling those blank pages repeatedly that he initially honed his skills and became a designer.