Fendi SS24 Menswear

At the Fendi show, the spotlight was solely on two key elements: the brand’s latest menswear collection and the newly unveiled leather goods factory. Located in Bagno a Ripoli, a picturesque Tuscan hamlet near Florence, the factory served as the backdrop for Silvia Venturini Fendi’s 57 looks.

The impressive terracotta-hued building, seamlessly blending with the surrounding landscape, hosted the fashion enthusiasts who eagerly awaited the show. As butterflies danced through sunlit herb beds outside, dedicated fans gathered in anticipation, hoping to catch a glimpse of an undisclosed celebrity guest.

Inside the factory, prior to the show, guests were granted the opportunity to wander amidst the fully operational workspace. The artisans diligently carried on with their craft, seemingly unfazed by the presence of the bustling menswear crowd. Laser-guided cutting machines expertly processed richly dyed calf hides, while skilled seamstresses meticulously hand-stitched the iconic Peekaboo bags.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, tucked away in her corner office, emphasized the strong sense of family and collaboration that underpinned their work. She highlighted the dedication of the artisans, who often worked tirelessly during the collection’s development, creating prototypes and making last-minute changes. Silvia expressed her belief in transparency, acknowledging the importance of recognizing the individuals behind the brand and understanding the conditions in which their creations are made.

The rich history of Fendi was woven into the fabric of the show. Silvia reminisced about her grandmother Adele, who founded the company nearly a century ago. Silvia vividly recalled her childhood visits to the atelier, where her mother worked, and the lasting image of Adele staying behind to engage with workers, treating them as family. Imagining her grandmother’s presence at the show, Silvia believed Adele would be overwhelmed with happiness and likely offer some firm advice.

While the term “artisan” often evokes a sense of old-world craftsmanship, what caught attention during the show was the seamless integration of highly specialized technology with traditional techniques. The factory resembled a modern laboratory, reminiscent of Silicon Valley innovation. As the artisans continued their work, the fruits of their labor gracefully paraded down the runway.

The collection itself was a testament to the artisans’ craftsmanship. The designs drew inspiration from workwear, with topstitched and hammer-looped details meticulously recreated in leather or heavy drill. Work aprons and tool belts were artfully styled into skirts, adding a touch of genteel kink to the looks. Reflecting the factory’s connection to nature, many pieces were adorned with naturally-derived dyes. Net vests and dresses were colored using nettle, while jacquard renderings of surrounding flowers adorned select tailoring pieces. The use of tan fabric blended with paper paid homage to the sailcloth-like salpa paper used for bag prototyping. The footwear combined clog-like slingbacks with modern molded soles, creating a unique fusion of styles. Prints featured toolkits and schematic diagrams of the brand’s iconic bag designs, while the closing tailored looks echoed the stitching patterns from Adele’s original Selleria line.

The show also showcased the exceptional craftsmanship of Fendi’s various metiers. Outrageously crafted pieces made from woven mink and shearling made a statement, alongside trophy pieces in vegetable materials. Notably, wefted F-logo jacquards in indigo and undyed denim added an artistic touch to the collection. The house’s discreet sensuality was expressed through halter neck shirting and bodies that elegantly exposed the back and hips. Fendi’s show provided an authentic glimpse into their world. Although staged for the audience’s benefit, the genuine passion and craftsmanship were evident throughout. The collective joy displayed on the faces of the numerous colleagues who joined Silvia for the finale served as a testament to the brand’s commitment to excellence.