DIESEL FW22 (FWC TBFashion)

Glenn Martens, as creative director of Diesel, has undoubtedly revolutionized the brand with his remarkable vision. Looking back at his epic show, one couldn’t help but be captivated by the extraordinary garments and the electrifying atmosphere he created.

Prior to the show, Martens teased his followers on Instagram with a video of a pulsating red object in the Milanese night sky. While we might have dismissed it as a UFO sighting in our current chaotic world, it turned out to be the Diesel logo rendered in a special effect style, flickering and illuminating the evening—an imaginative moment amidst the mundane hustle and bustle of cars on the highway.

Martens has been tasked with making something magical and extraordinary out of the most democratic and utilitarian fabric: denim. And he has undoubtedly succeeded. With his fall 2022 collection, he has demonstrated the true extent of his ambitious vision for the brand.

The show featured colossal denim ‘fur’ coats, meticulously crafted by Diesel’s artisans with a level of technique usually associated with couture houses. Martens fearlessly embarked on wildly experimental endeavors, resulting in breathtaking outcomes. Notably, he upcycled and layered deadstock Diesel T-shirt jersey, transforming them into fraying and fragmenting long skirts and supersized pants—a testament to his commitment to handcrafted pieces made locally, utilizing the resources available at the factory.

As one entered the showspace for Martens’s Diesel runway debut—a vast industrial lot on the outskirts of Milan—it became evident that his sense of spectacle extended far beyond the celestial display. Enormous inflatable figures dominated the red runway, paying homage to the iconic MTV legends of the 2000s. The collection itself was a delightful blend of tongue-in-cheek fashion, featuring everything from teeny denim bra tops paired with distressed and peeling faded jeans, to playful belt skirts, trompe l’oeil catsuits, motocross velvet minis, and boldly logoed stiletto boots. Martens skillfully fused contemporary pop culture with Diesel’s iconic past, creating a harmonious juxtaposition of low-slung, hip-jutting, and flesh-showing elements.

The venue’s striking art direction, orchestrated by Niklas Bildstein Zaar, a collaborator of Kanye West, further emphasized Martens’s astute understanding of contemporary culture. However, what sets Martens’s Diesel apart is his unwavering dedication to inclusivity and democracy, particularly among younger audiences. His designs are imbued with wit, grit, and a genuine love for creating a brand that resonates with the younger generation. Martens also upholds a principled stance on sustainability, avoiding the pitfalls of greenwashing that plague the industry. Last year, Diesel reinforced its fundamental statements, and this year, Martens is determined to push those boundaries even further.

While driving Diesel’s resurgence as a brand that not only reflects pop culture but also drives it, Martens remains true to the brand’s individuality. He acknowledges that Diesel will never be a luxury brand, nor does it strive to be one. Instead, it serves as a refreshing alternative—a joyful and uncynical force that caters to every price point. From innovative sneakers with embedded laces to snappy trucker caps, reversible quilted jackets, and molded leather backpacks and crossbody bags that pay homage to the iconic logo seen flashing in the sky on social media, Martens’s creations are truly out of this world.

Glenn Martens’s tenure as the creative director of Diesel has been nothing short of extraordinary. With his visionary approach, he has breathed new life into the brand, captivating audiences with his exceptional designs and unyielding commitment to inclusivity, sustainability, and individuality. As we reflect on this epic show, it is evident that Glenn Martens’s impact on Diesel will continue to reverberate, driving the brand forward and inspiring a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.