Chloé Resort 2024

Gabriela Hearst, in her first two years as Creative Director at Chloé, has prioritized sustainability by focusing on materials, from fiber to garment. The aim is to create a fashion brand that is not only aesthetically pleasing but also environmentally conscious. Under her watch, cotton logo tees are no longer part of the equation.

The spring 2024 pre-collection from Chloé embodies a more nuanced and abstract approach centered around consciousness, circularity, and timelessness. These values are expressed both aesthetically and technically, as stated in the collection notes. Hearst succinctly describes the collection as “the chicest garment mixing, but actually you’re looking at trash.” She takes pride in the fact that the collection incorporates leftover materials, giving them a new life and purpose.

However, there is nothing leftover or haphazard about this collection. On the contrary, it exudes sophistication and thoughtfulness. The jeans, a collaboration with denim specialist Adriano Goldschmied, are made from a proprietary fabric consisting of 87% post-consumer cotton and 13% hemp. And what appears to be denim may not be denim at all, as seen in a shearling collared jacket and matching flares made from suede.

Knitwear, one of Hearst’s favorite categories, is a recurring theme throughout the collection. It is featured in an elegant ensemble with fringe details, as well as in a Merino dress with tulip sleeves and a botanical guipure midriff, designed to convert even those who are averse to cut-outs. Ribbed knits in lower-impact wool, engineered for curves and ease of movement, are adorned with jewel-like chains at the seams. Some pieces, like a wool jacquard cardigan with multi-colored threads, were created in collaboration with the social enterprise Manos del Uruguay.

For eveningwear, Hearst pays tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s influential tenure at Chloé. A custom column dress worn by Maude Apatow at the Met Gala is reimagined in various forms, including a coat, a dress with a swooping arrow motif at the back, and accessories. Another nod to Lagerfeld is a guitar dress, inspired by the version Hearst wore on the red carpet.

Beyond these statement pieces, the collection features a range of exquisitely tailored clothes in neutral shades of ecru, black, and navy. Hearst demonstrates her expertise in timeless dressing with chic and sharply cut garments. A black wool cape coat with gold buttons, a denim and shearling jacket, and fur coats crafted from shearling or cropped chocolate leather jackets all exemplify the concept of long-term investment dressing without gimmicks.

“In fashion, people sometimes forget that we are providing a service, something that is beautiful and well made,” observes Hearst. “Nobody really needs what we make.” However, when this collection arrives in stores, Chloé fans will surely beg to differ, appreciating the combination of beauty, craftsmanship, and sustainability that it embodies.