BALENCIAGA SS20

Looking back at the spring of 2020, Balenciaga delivered a fashion show that left a lasting impact. Today, in just a few hours, the esteemed fashion house is set to debut its new Spring 2024 collection in a digital fashion show, eagerly anticipated by fashion enthusiasts worldwide. But before we delve into the future, let’s reflect on the past.

Demna Gvasalia, the visionary behind Balenciaga, has a unique ability to capture the essence of the world around us and translate it into powerful fashion statements. In the Summer 2020 collection, he created a captivating political arena, a faux “Balenciaga parliament or assembly,” where the concept of power dressing and fashion uniforms was under investigation.

As we entered the auditorium, the walls enveloped us in a hue reminiscent of the EU flag—a deliberate choice by Gvasalia. The show commenced with senior delegates, both men and women clad in impeccable tailoring, exuding a severe and anonymous corporate presence. Their breast pockets featured embroidered badges, resembling the design of a Mastercard, with a Balenciaga logo divided between two discs.

Gvasalia then introduced what he referred to as the campaign dresses. Inspired by women politicians and their campaign attire, he sought to infuse these tailored daywear dresses with a cool and contemporary twist—a challenge he embraced wholeheartedly. The solution was found in creating boxy and cocoon-like silhouettes, a signature of Balenciaga’s aesthetic, ensuring that these democratic designs could flatter various body types with ease.

Throughout the show, a bombastic and haunting soundtrack filled the air, curated by Loïk Gomez, Gvasalia’s partner. The diverse cast of characters, including doctors, lawyers, gallerists, engineers, and professional models, continued to grace the stage. On closer inspection, one couldn’t help but notice prosthetically augmented features, with jutting cheekbones and amplified lips—an element subtly infused with a sense of unease and trepidation.

For Gvasalia, relevance lies in keenly observing what people wear while maintaining a connection to the heritage of Cristóbal Balenciaga. This brings us to the crinoline dresses that closed the show—a whimsical nod to cartoonish fantasies, exuding buoyant silhouettes. Gvasalia noted that these ballroom dresses harken back to Balenciaga’s beginnings in Spain, inspired by Spanish painting. However, the designer ensured their wearability, offering a more gothic aesthetic when the crinoline was removed.

Amidst the collection, there was a section reminiscent of the Dynasty era, featuring exaggerated shoulder pads and the glamorous allure associated with affluent couture patrons of the past. These avatars from the past posed a question: How would they navigate the corridors of power in our current era? The answer need not be stated.

Amongst the array of garments, certain pieces stood out. The jersey sport pants, motocross pants, and tailored jackets caught the eye, appealing to a younger generation seeking a sartorial upgrade from their beloved hoodies. Gvasalia possesses a keen understanding of the evolving social landscape, acknowledging the shifts in attitudes and preferences.

When asked if this collection symbolized a simplification of shapes and a focus on reality, Gvasalia’s response went beyond the practical aspects of his designs, such as empowering garments and diverse casting choices. He confidently declared, “Reality? I don’t think it gets more real than this.”

As we eagerly anticipate Balenciaga’s Spring 2024 collection, set to unfold today, we are reminded of the extraordinary ability of Demna Gvasalia to captivate and provoke through his unique blend of fashion and social commentary.