ALYX SS24 MENSWEAR

The anticipation was palpable as the Alyx audience gathered, sipping on white wine and eagerly discussing plans for the afterparty. After a brief wait, the show finally commenced, and the atmosphere was charged with excitement. The speaker stacks in Via Ventura came alive, setting the stage for a captivating display of fashion.

The first looks to grace the runway were tailored peak lapel jackets and black or black and brown topcoats. These impeccably crafted pieces featured angled, popper-fastened cargo pockets at the tricep and chain-edged collars, exuding a sense of modern sophistication. Raw-edged sleeveless jackets in treated canvas took center stage, adorned with matte relief crossbar-free “A” logos that were repeated on Matthew M. Williams’s favorite-cut button-up shirts. Paired with crisp white cotton pants, this ensemble created a sleek and refined aesthetic, reminiscent of a sensei’s attire—a concept that Williams embraced wholeheartedly.

A notable addition to the collection was the introduction of a delicate “ballet slipper” shoe style. Created in collaboration with Vibram, these shoes featured a new enclosed variation of the FiveFingers sole. Their graceful appearance stood in contrast to the chunky molded sole boots that Alyx is known for. The boots, presented with low-calf uppers in various finishes, including a striking leopard print, added a touch of edginess to the overall aesthetic.

The second half of the show showcased a series of Capri-esque pants paired with the aforementioned boots. Despite the pants’ association with a chic yet relaxed style, there was an underlying post-industrial punk element that gave them a unique character. It was refreshing to witness this intriguing combination—a nod to a Wolfgang Tillmans photograph entitled “Gedser”—in a collection that Williams himself styled. His vision was clear: a pure and direct representation of looks he would personally wear, devoid of excessive styling and with an immediate impact.

Leather garments played a significant role in the collection, with treated multi-pocket shorts, liner gilets, and oversized jackets featuring rollercoaster buckles. Additionally, what appeared to be garment-dyed, greasy-effect denim was skillfully cut into voluminous separates, offering a fresh take on denim attire. Full-armed canvas sweatshirts and a false tee-sleeve layered over a long-sleeve top, worn with the captivating Capri pants, introduced new silhouettes reminiscent of modern tracksuits.

Together, Matthew M. Williams and his dedicated design director Lee Roach curated a subtly distorted spring wardrobe, reimagining work-to-street-to-eveningwear staples. The collection showcased their artistry in seamlessly blending elements of functionality and style, resulting in an alluring and thought-provoking display. Alyx’s spring show was a testament to their creative vision, offering a glimpse into a distinctive and subtly subversive fashion narrative.