CDG HOMME PLUS SS24 YES PLEASE!!

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS24 Menswear
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus SS24 Menswear

Rei Kawakubo, the visionary designer, unveiled a collection that defied the confines of reality, transporting us into a new world of fashion. The show’s title, the last two words of Kawakubo’s statement, set the stage for a collection that reimagined traditional tailoring to fit an evolving and otherworldly human form.

The shoes made a striking statement, leaving a clear footprint of the parallel universe we were about to explore. Alongside more conventional sneakers created in collaboration with Nike ACG, black leather Oxfords took center stage. These substantial and proper shoes were designed for feet that defied convention, either cloven upwards at the bridge or spreading out at each side, further blurring the boundaries of reality.

The collection unfolded in phases, beginning with a series of black frock-coated looks featuring white collars. Waistbands transformed into inverted short pants, while tufts of long black hair emerged from the suiting, adding an organic and unconventional touch. Jackets took on a new form, with double-layered constructions and additional jackets seamlessly integrated in part or whole. An upside-down pant, adorned with black foliage, foreshadowed a shift from the monochromatic to the organic.

Look 9 showcased a double-waisted jungle print short paired with a netted white shirt, topped with a jacket of the same print, open at the back like the curtains of a theater. This referenced look 28, where the print adorned the front of a back-to-front jacket. A black satin jacket revealed another slit-open jacket beneath, from which green fabric foliage burst forth like unpruned ivy. Two prince of wales check frock coats, featuring extra armholes and skewed proportions, were embroidered with whimsical motifs reminiscent of old-fashioned kids’ sticker packs. These motifs, such as martini glasses and dolphins, reappeared in the Gary Card headband pieces, which lay like forgotten relics in Arai Takeo’s scarecrow hair. Another black look showcased a shirt and jacket growing out of another jacket, featuring pixelated pre-emojis reminiscent of the Nintendo era.

Sections of the collection featured iridescent suiting fabrics, with floating shoulders that exposed sliced-open wadding, exuding a punkish vibe. Collar backs in punkish yellow tartan added a rebellious touch. One model sported an urchin and martini glass in his hair, complementing a silk frock coat hemmed with sleek, shiny pins in a fish scale pattern vest.

The show reached its climax with a curtain look, featuring a suit adorned with a 19th-century red British army battledress. Pairs of pants dangled as if in a wardrobe, layered shirting created an intricate composition, and military dress elements added a sense of authority. It was as if the models were adorned in every garment simultaneously, blurring the lines between different styles and eras.

Rei Kawakubo’s collection transcended conventional boundaries, inviting us into a realm where the familiar was reimagined and the unexpected became the norm. The show was a testament to the designer’s unique vision and her ability to challenge and redefine the limits of fashion.