Yohji Yamamoto SS24 Menswear

Yohji Yamamoto, the iconic fashion designer known for his avant-garde creations, showcased a captivating SS collection that explored the interplay of light and dark, art influences, and the balance between beauty and rawness. The runway presentation unveiled a stunning range of garments, where bright gray and white fabrics harmoniously coexisted with Yamamoto’s signature black pieces, symbolizing the contrasting elements of lightness and darkness.

During an intimate backstage conversation, Yamamoto revealed the inspiration behind the collection. Recounting his daughter’s experience at a Bob Dylan concert, where the stage was bathed in a solitary light amidst darkness, he drew parallels between this contrast and the duality of light and dark in his designs. This insight fueled his creative vision for the collection, infusing it with a captivating juxtaposition of contrasting elements.

The collection showcased an array of prints, with influences ranging from art books dating back to the Middle Ages to contemporary works. Yamamoto drew inspiration from the distinct architectural and artistic styles of each era, aiming to create patterns that seamlessly merged multiple periods into a cohesive whole. This amalgamation of artistry resulted in unique prints that spoke to the rich tapestry of history and artistic expression.

While Yamamoto’s oeuvre has predominantly revolved around black garments, he has recently embraced a wider color palette. When questioned about the inclusion of vibrant red hues in this season’s collection, Yamamoto’s face illuminated with passion as he explained their symbolism. The red tones were intended to represent blood, serving as a poignant reminder of the turmoil and adversity plaguing the world. For Yamamoto, the vivid red hues became a visual expression of the many wrongs occurring globally.

One notable piece from the collection featured a long, flowing coat adorned with the text, “Oh you look ugly.” When asked about the provocative statement, Yamamoto expressed his desire for people to appreciate the contrast between beauty and ugliness. He valued the rawness and imperfections in his work, often professing that he found perfection to be unappealing. This concept of embracing the inherent contradictions within aesthetics has long been a hallmark of Yamamoto’s artistic philosophy.

Throughout the collection, wide trousers, waistcoats, and coats were artfully constructed with visible stitches and oversized safety pins. Blazers boasted unfinished lapels, and spare fabrics were intricately sewn onto garments like delicate embroideries. These deliberate design choices ensured that Yamamoto’s edginess remained palpable in each piece. The designer’s keen design acumen was evident in the meticulous balance between rawness and perfection—a testament to his unrivaled skill.

Yohji Yamamoto’s SS24 collection not only showcased his masterful craftsmanship but also his ability to provoke thought and challenge conventional notions of beauty. With a deft interplay of light and dark, an infusion of artistic influences, and a celebration of imperfections, Yamamoto once again proved why he is a revered figure in the world of fashion.