Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2023 (FWC TBFashion)

Yohji Yamamoto’s show captivated the audience from the very beginning, as the renowned designer himself serenaded the runway with Leonard Cohen’s iconic song, “I’m Your Man.” The choice of the song carried a profound message, exploring the complexities of understanding what a woman truly desires. Cohen’s lyrics, expressing a willingness to adapt and even wear a mask for love, contrasted with Yamamoto’s resolute approach to his craft after decades in the industry.

This collection presented a fresh interpretation of Yamamoto’s signature aesthetic. Almost exclusively working with the color black, he introduced accents of red and white this season. As fashion circles back to deconstruction, Yamamoto remains a master of the craft, demonstrating unwavering conviction.

Shirt dresses with bias cuts were adorned with sculpted leather pieces, and skirts unraveled into twisting masses of raw-edged flaps. Necklaces, made from pocket-sized fabric swatches strung on leather cords, showcased his commitment to reducing waste and repurposing materials.

Imperfect beauty remained a central theme, evident in the painted spots on models’ faces, tousled hair, and the asymmetry and unconventional layering of the garments. However, the final looks, adorned with bead embellishments, exuded a captivating simplicity.

One notable highlight was the intricate embroidery on a zip-front shirt, featuring Yamamoto himself with his trademark hat and cherished guitar. The show concluded with a Japanese song, and while the loose translation conveyed a mixed emotional landscape, it primarily expressed a tale of an aging man who experiences both sadness and contentment, reflecting on his accomplishments. The melody encapsulated a bittersweet sentiment that resonated with the audience.

Yohji Yamamoto once again showcased his mastery of design, presenting a collection that transcended conventional fashion norms. His commitment to deconstruction, the pursuit of imperfect beauty, and the reduction of waste highlighted his unwavering artistic vision. The show left a lasting impression, inviting contemplation on the multifaceted nature of desire and the ever-evolving journey of self-expression through fashion.