Sacai Fall 2023 (FWC TBFashion)

Chitose Abe’s return to the Paris runway after the pandemic lockdowns brought forth a new formality in her designs. Departing from her previous reliance on colorful graphic prints and sport/utility influences, she has embraced a more monochromatic palette, using dressier elements as the foundation for her signature hybrid garments.

In her fall collection, Chitose Abe took a different approach, “dissecting” traditionally constructed garments and repositioning them in unexpected ways. She played with proportions by adding shoulder straps and patch pockets to long slit skirts, transforming them into versatile pieces that can be worn multiple ways. The utilitarian functionality of these designs adds a contemporary twist.

Skirts took center stage in this season’s collection, offering a range of options for the modern woman. One standout piece was a fluted skirt punctuated with vertical slashes, creating an edgy aesthetic inspired by interstellar references found in her menswear line. Other skirts featured intricate draping that cascaded from the hips down to the ankles, showcasing Abe’s ability to create captivating silhouettes.

Abe’s experimentation extended to jackets, where she incorporated horizontal slices to elevate the silhouette. By cropping the jackets above the waist instead of hitting at the hips, she achieved a more modern and dynamic look. Basting stitches and trailing threads adorned some of the final pieces, including a dress coat version of the tiered jackets. These details, typically removed in the final stages of production, were intentionally left visible as Abe found beauty in their raw, unfinished aesthetic.

Challenging preconceived notions in design has always been Abe’s priority. While her instincts led her to explore elegance this season, she remains uninterested in conforming to convention. With her unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries, Abe continues to redefine contemporary fashion and inspire innovation within the industry.